Author: Steven Joseph

Informa Markets Jewelry has announced the return of the Sustainability Awards by Jewelry World Awards (JWA), a programme designed to spotlight sustainability leaders in the fine jewelry, gemstone, and related industries. Applications for the 2025 awards are open from 6 January to 7 April 2025, with submissions accepted through an online portal.The awards aim to highlight organisations across the jewelry industry that have achieved measurable progress in environmental, social, and governance (ESG) efforts, regardless of their size, focus, or location.“Previously known as the JNA Awards, JWA was launched by Informa Markets Jewelry in 2012 to celebrate pioneers, change-makers and exceptional business…

The Zambian government has reinstated a 15% export duty on emeralds, effective 1 January 2025, following a suspension that had been in place since 2020.The 15% export duty was initially introduced in 2019 but was suspended later that year after lobbying by the Zambian emerald sector. The suspension remained in place until its recent revocation. Gemfields stated that the duty was reintroduced without prior notice or consultation.Industry ImplicationsThe new export duty aligns with Zambia’s efforts to increase government revenue in 2025, with reports of similar measures in other sectors. This may influence the gemstone sector’s operating conditions and its appeal…

The Zambian government has reinstated a 15% export duty on emeralds, effective 1 January 2025, following a suspension that had been in place since 2020.The 15% export duty was initially introduced in 2019 but was suspended later that year after lobbying by the Zambian emerald sector. The suspension remained in place until its recent revocation. Gemfields stated that the duty was reintroduced without prior notice or consultation.Industry ImplicationsThe new export duty aligns with Zambia’s efforts to increase government revenue in 2025, with reports of similar measures in other sectors. This may influence the gemstone sector’s operating conditions and its appeal…

De Beers Group and the Gem & Jewelry Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), India’s leading jewelry trade body, have launched a strategic collaboration named INDRA – Indian Natural Diamond Retailer Alliance. The initiative aims to support independent retailers in India by offering advanced tools and resources including incorporating technologies such as Artificial Intelligence to help create customised retailer campaigns. It also offers retailers multi-lingual marketing materials and training resources, including detailed information on natural diamonds in local languages, to better equip them to engage with consumers.Interactive roadshows introducing the INDRA programme are set to begin in January 2025, allowing GJEPC members to enrol…

TAG Heuer has been announced as the Official Timekeeper of Formula 1, marking a return to a role it last held decades ago. The partnership coincides with Formula 1’s 75th anniversary celebrations and its ongoing collaboration with LVMH, which began in 2023.TAG Heuer’s involvement with Formula 1 dates back to 1969, when it became the first luxury brand to display its logo on a Formula 1 car. Over the years, the brand has been linked to pivotal moments in the sport’s history, including partnerships with Ferrari in the 1970s, McLaren in the 1980s and beyond, and Red Bull Racing more recently.Antoine…

Russian diamond producer Alrosa has forecasted a rebalancing of supply and demand for both rough and polished diamonds in the coming months, driven by falling midstream inventory levels. The projection, shared during a meeting with journalists, highlights potential pricing dynamics in the diamond sector.Supply Constraints and Structural Changes Drive Market TrendsSergey Takhiev, Alrosa’s head of corporate finance, stated that reduced global diamond production levels—now up to 20% lower than those recorded in 2018-2019—are influencing market dynamics. He pointed to the growth of online jewelry trade as a significant factor, enabling jewellers and retailers to lower their inventory requirements.“The growth of online…

De Beers has accumulated its largest diamond stockpile since the 2008 financial crisis, with an inventory valued at approximately $2 billion, according to a report by the Financial Times. This development reflects broader challenges in the diamond industry, including shifting market dynamics and evolving consumer preferences.Market Pressures and Declining SalesDe Beers’ chief executive, Al Cook, described 2024 as “a tough year for rough diamond sales,” citing a combination of factors contributing to decreased demand. A slowdown in China’s economy—historically a key driver of diamond consumption—has significantly impacted global sales. Additionally, the rise of lab-grown diamonds, which offer a more affordable alternative,…

Surat, India’s diamond processing hub, is experiencing a significant shift as global demand for natural diamonds slows. Renowned for processing approximately 90% of the world’s rough diamonds, the city is adapting to changing market conditions by expanding into jewelry manufacturing. This diversification reflects efforts to counteract declining diamond export figures while leveraging growing domestic and international jewelry demand.Jewelry Manufacturing Gaining TractionAccording to India’s Gem and Jewelry Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), a number of Surat’s diamond cutting and polishing units are now engaging in jewelry manufacturing. Vipul Shah, chairman of GJEPC, noted: “The units have gradually started doing job work in jewelry manufacturing.…

Angola has achieved a significant milestone in its diamond industry, producing approximately 12 million carats of diamonds in 2024 – the first time the country has surpassed the 10 million carat threshold, a target outlined in the National Development Plan (NDP) 2023–2027. Reforms Drive GrowthThe achievement is attributed to legal and tax reforms introduced in recent years, which improved the business environment and increased transparency within the diamond sector. These reforms have encouraged investment and facilitated the return of companies to Angola’s diamond market.Minister Azevedo highlighted these advancements, stating, “We begin to see some trees flourish and harvest some fruits from…

Gemfields, a London-listed mining company and significant producer of coloured gemstones, has temporarily suspended operations at its Montepuez Ruby Mining (MRM) site in northern Mozambique.The suspension follows violent unrest linked to the country’s disputed national election, during which over 200 individuals associated with illegal ruby mining attempted to invade the site.Violent Incidents and Operational ImpactOn Christmas Eve, groups set fire to community buildings near Gemfields’ MRM operation. Security forces, including Mozambican police and military, responded, resulting in two fatalities, according to the company.In a related incident, a vocational training centre in the nearby village of Wikupuri, built in partnership with…

India’s jewelry market, the second-largest consumer of gold globally, is undergoing significant changes as escalating gold prices influence buyer preferences. With prices surging 22% in 2024 following a 15% increase in 2023, many consumers are now opting for lightweight and lower-carat gold jewelry to accommodate their budgets.Lightweight Jewelry in High DemandTraditional jewelry remains popular in India, especially during significant occasions such as weddings. However, jewellers report a rising preference for lightweight designs that preserve traditional aesthetics while being more cost-effective.”Most Indian buyers prefer traditional jewelry, but now they want it crafted in lightweight designs to fit their budgets,” said Bachhraj Bamalwa,…

Gemfields, a prominent coloured gemstone miner, has raised concerns about the safety of its employees and operations at the Montepuez ruby mine in Mozambique. The unrest follows a contentious October election, upheld by the Mozambican Constitutional Council earlier this week, which has heightened instability in the region. The mine, located in Cabo Delgado province, is one of Gemfields’ main assets in the country, alongside its Megaruma, Campos De Joia, and Eastern Ruby Mining deposits.Security Concerns and Impact on Local CommunitiesGemfields has reported that groups exploiting the political instability have targeted nearby areas with arson, vandalism, and other disruptive activities. These actions…

The Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC) has responded firmly to allegations published by the Belgian newspaper De Tijd, which questioned the diamond industry’s commitment to anti-money laundering (AML) measures. The claims stem from an investigation involving a Ukrainian-French jewelry business owner connected to Antwerp’s Diamond Club.Criminal Investigation Sparks ControversyThe investigation focuses on a 43-year-old Ukrainian-French woman, named as Iryna G, who faces allegations of money laundering in connection with supplying food to Ukraine’s military. Authorities in Ukraine reportedly uncovered over €4.7 million in suspicious cash as part of the inquiry.While the case primarily concerns Iryna G and her company, IKG,…

Gaetano Cavalieri, President of the World Jewelry Confederation (CIBJO), addressed the opening session of the 2024 Global Gems and Jewelry Development Conference in Hainan, China, on 19 December, putting forward an argument that conflicts within the industry, particularly concerning laboratory-grown diamonds, have weakened consumer confidence in jewelry.“The items we sell do not necessarily have inherent value – such is the nature of luxury products,” he said. “They have perceived value, created by the brands, and through cultural and historic associations. If the consumer loses confidence in our products, then their value is discounted.”Laboratory-Grown Diamonds and Market ChallengesDr. Cavalieri outlined challenges…

Lucara Diamond Corp. has announced the names of two extraordinary rough diamonds recently unearthed from its Karowe Mine in Botswana. The larger of the two, a 2,488-carat diamond recovered in August 2024, has been named Motswedi, meaning “water spring” in Setswana. Remarkably, this diamond is the second-largest ever discovered, marking a significant milestone for the mine and the diamond industry.The second diamond, weighing 1,094 carats and recovered in September 2024, has been named Seriti, which translates to “aura” or “presence” in Setswana, reflecting cultural ties to identity and legacy in Botswana. Both names were chosen through a national competition, engaging thousands…

Swarovski has announced the launch of Recreated Crystals, developed with a focus on sustainability and circular design principles. The crystals are made by remelting material from Swarovski’s own crystal production process, creating new colours while maintaining a quality comparable to the original.According to the company, this production method uses 40% fewer natural resources than standard crystal manufacturing and reduces the environmental footprint by at least 34%.Incorporation into CollectionsRecreated Crystals are available for Swarovski’s business-to-business partners and are also being introduced in consumer collections. For the autumn and winter 2024 season, the Ice Blue shade is featured in designs including the…

Tiffany & Co. has acquired an 18-karat gold pocket watch tied to the Titanic disaster for $2 million, adding to its collection of historically significant items. This acquisition, made at an auction hosted by Henry Aldridge & Son Ltd., sets a record as the highest price ever paid for a piece of Titanic memorabilia.The pocket watch, originally gifted to Captain Arthur H. Rostron of the RMS Carpathia, commemorates his heroic actions in rescuing more than 700 Titanic survivors on April 15, 1912.A Tribute to Titanic HeroismThe timepiece was commissioned by three prominent Titanic survivors—Madeleine Talmage Astor, Marian Longstreth Thayer, and…

Only Natural Diamonds has announced the publication of The History of Diamond Engagement Rings: A True Romance, a new book by jewelry historian and founder of The Adventurine, Marion Fasel.Published as a limited-edition hardcover, the book examines the history of diamond engagement rings and their evolution from the 15th century to modern times.Historical Insight and Design EvolutionFasel’s research explores the origins of diamond engagement rings, addressing misconceptions such as their association with the 1947 De Beers campaign or the 1477 engagement of Mary of Burgundy. She highlights evidence from Renaissance artwork and historic manuscripts that trace the tradition to earlier…

The European Commission has approved an €81 million State aid measure from Spain to support the establishment of a factory for the production of semiconductor-grade synthetic diamonds in Trujillo, Extremadura. Led by Diamond Foundry Europe, this project aims to align with EU objectives in regional development, job creation, and the transition to a more sustainable economy.Project OverviewThe new facility will produce synthetic diamond wafers using plasma reactor technology. These wafers are intended for use in the semiconductor industry as an alternative to silicon, particularly in key sectors such as 5G communications and electric vehicles.The factory’s production capacity is expected to reach…

China has announced the discovery of a significant gold deposit in Pingjiang County, Hunan Province.Valued at approximately $83 billion at current prices, the deposit is estimated to contain over 1,000 tonnes of gold, marking a notable development for the global and domestic gold mining sectors.Details of the DiscoveryThe deposit was identified by experts from the Geological Bureau of Hunan Province, who located more than 40 new gold veins less than 2,000 metres underground. These veins alone are projected to yield 300 tonnes of gold. Additionally, reserves extending down to 3,000 metres increase the estimated total yield to over 1,000 tonnes.Core…

The United States and the United Kingdom have imposed sanctions on 28 individuals and entities linked to a global gold-smuggling and money-laundering network allegedly led by Kamlesh Pattni. The operation, centred in Zimbabwe, is accused of exploiting the country’s gold and diamond resources through bribery, fraudulent reporting, and a network of companies used to conceal these activities.Pattni, a Kenyan businessman and UK citizen, became known in the 1990s for his alleged involvement in Kenya’s Goldenberg scandal. Following accusations of fraudulent gold trading, Pattni moved to Zimbabwe, where he is said to have continued developing a network facilitating the smuggling and…

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has announced an enhancement to its emerald reports, offering optional filler identification from 15 December 2024 in  response to industry requests for more detailed information about fillers used in treated emeralds. Responding to Market NeedsThe optional service, initially offered at no additional cost, allows clients to receive specific information about filler types present in their emeralds. The service marks a return to a more detailed reporting method previously offered by GIA over 20 years ago but discontinued to focus on the degree of filling.“GIA is making this change in response to market needs,” said Tom…

Element Six, part of De Beers Group, has announced its investment in Lightsynq, a US-based startup focused on quantum computing. Lightsynq, founded by experts from Harvard University and AWS, is working on innovative solutions to improve how quantum computers communicate and scale. Synthetic diamonds, engineered by Element Six, play a crucial role in enabling this technology, which has applications in fields like cybersecurity and chemistry.Supporting Quantum Advancements with Synthetic DiamondsQuantum computing, while still in its early stages, has the potential to revolutionise industries with its ability to process complex calculations far faster than traditional computers. One major challenge in the field…

De Beers Group has announced the winners of its 2024 Shining Light Awards, a biennial jewelry design competition aimed at fostering talent from Botswana, Canada, Namibia, and South Africa.The awards are part of the company’s initiative to develop skills in jewelry design and manufacturing among young professionals.Competition OverviewLaunched in 1995, the Shining Light Awards provide a platform for designers aged 18 to 35 who are enrolled in or have completed jewelry design programmes. Participants are required to design a complete collection, including a ring, necklace, earrings, bangles, and bracelets.This year’s competition attracted 104 entries under the theme “Luxury Redefined,” which…

Scientists and engineers from the UK Atomic Energy Authority (UKAEA) and the University of Bristol have developed the world’s first carbon-14 diamond battery. This innovative technology utilises radioactive carbon-14, a by-product of nuclear reactors, to create an energy source capable of powering devices for thousands of years.How the Carbon-14 Diamond Battery WorksThe carbon-14 diamond battery generates power through the radioactive decay of carbon-14, which has a half-life of 5,700 years. This process is comparable to how solar panels convert light into electricity; however, instead of photons, the battery captures fast-moving electrons within the diamond structure.The carbon-14 used in the battery is…

The International Gemological Institute (IGI) has announced an initial public offering (IPO) valued at $499 million (Rs 4,225 crore). The IPO will open for subscription from 13 to 17 December, with shares scheduled to list on the Bombay Stock Exchange (BSE) and National Stock Exchange (NSE) on 20 December.Background on IGI and the IPOThe IPO comes following Blackstone Group’s acquisition of IGI for $570 million in May 2023 from Fosun International and former IGI CEO Roland Lorie. The offering values IGI at approximately $3.5 billion.Overview of IGI’s OperationsFounded in Antwerp in 1975 by Marcel Lorie, IGI is the world’s second-largest…

The Pantone Colour Institute has announced its Colour of the Year for 2025: Pantone 17-1230, also known as “Mocha Mousse.” The warm, rich brown hue has been described as embodying connections to the natural world, everyday comforts, and a refined sense of luxury. This selection marks the 26th year of Pantone’s annual Colour of the Year programme, which influences trends across fashion, interiors, and jewelry.Why ‘Mocha Mousse’?According to Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Colour Institute, Mocha Mousse resonates on multiple sensory levels, evoking the comfort and richness of chocolate, coffee, and cacao. This earthy tone was chosen for its ability…

Boodles has reported a pre-tax profit of £18.1m for the latest financial year, despite a 1.3% dip in sales to £104.9m. The company operates high-profile stores across the UK and Ireland, including locations in London, Manchester, Liverpool, Chester, and Dublin.Financial Performance and DividendsIn the accounts filed for Boodle & Dunthorne Ltd, the company noted a slight decline in pre-tax profit from £19.5m in 2023. During the same period, £6.4m in dividends were distributed to shareholders.Despite the minor sales contraction, trading for the current financial year is described as “encouragingly strong,” with significant growth in both revenue and net profit reported to…

India, the world’s largest hub for diamond polishing, is intensifying its call for a domestic diamond export certification centre following the recent establishment of a certification facility in Botswana.The global diamond trade has been navigating significant regulatory changes since the G7’s January 2024 ban on Russian-origin diamonds, extending this restriction to diamonds processed in intermediary countries such as India. By March 2024, Antwerp, emerged as the sole global export certification centre, further complicating the supply chain for India’s diamond exporters.While Botswana’s certification facility has provided relief to African diamond manufacturers and traders by reducing costs and streamlining compliance, Indian exporters must…

De Beers has released the dates for its 2025 rough diamond sales, confirming 10 sights across the year.At its final sight of 2024, De Beers reduced rough diamond prices by 10% to 15% as part of efforts to address market imbalances. The company has also adjusted its supply flexibility, reflecting a strategy shift to better align with current demand. Additionally, in 2025, the December sight will be shortened to four days, compared to the traditional five.Full Schedule of De Beers’ 2025 SightsThe schedule for De Beers’ 2025 sights is as follows: