Author: Steven Joseph

Pandora has partnered with Amazon to take action against a network involved in the sale of counterfeit jewelry, resulting in a criminal prosecution in China. The collaboration followed a multi-year investigation by Pandora’s Intellectual Property and Brand Protection team, supported by Amazon’s Counterfeit Crimes Unit. Chinese law enforcement, acting on the information gathered, conducted a raid leading to the seizure of counterfeit Pandora items.Investigation and Legal ProceedingsThe inquiry was launched in 2020 after customs authorities intercepted shipments suspected of containing counterfeit goods. Pandora and Amazon linked the activity to two sellers based in China operating at scale across European markets.The case…

Russia remained the leading country for rough diamond production by value in 2024, holding its position for a second consecutive year. According to data released by the Kimberley Process, the Russian Federation produced 37.3 million carats of rough diamonds, valued at $3.34 billion, despite continued international sanctions and a subdued global market.Production Trends and Market ConditionsGlobal rough diamond production increased by 6% in volume to 118 million carats. However, the total value declined by 10% year-on-year to $11.48 billion, reflecting weaker consumer demand and lower average prices across key producing countries.Russia’s output matched the previous year’s volume but declined in value…

Governments of major diamond-producing countries and industry leaders have signed the Luanda Accord, committing to allocate 1% of annual revenues from rough diamond sales to support the marketing of natural diamonds through the Natural Diamond Council (NDC).Backing for Natural Diamond PromotionThe agreement was signed during a Ministerial Round Table in Luanda, Angola, where participating countries and companies expressed a unified approach to enhancing global consumer awareness of natural diamonds. This initiative aims to address a decline in category marketing investment and respond to the impact of synthetic alternatives on consumer perceptions.Angola’s Minister of Mineral Resources, Oil and Gas, Diamantino Azevedo,…

HRD Antwerp, the diamond grading laboratory subsidiary of the Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC), has announced it will cease issuing quality certificates for loose laboratory-grown diamonds from 2026. The decision is part of an effort to reinforce the distinction between natural and synthetic diamonds.Scope of the ChangeThe laboratory will stop grading loose lab-grown diamonds intended for commercial sale, but will continue to certify jewelry that contains synthetic diamonds. HRD will also continue to analyse synthetic diamonds for research and technical purposes, but not for grading or commercial use.Ellen Joncheere, CEO of HRD Antwerp, stated: “As of 2026, we will no longer…

Rio Tinto has recovered a 0.45-carat purple diamond at its Diavik mine in Canada’s Northwest Territories, marking the first discovery of a purple stone of this size at the site since mining commenced in 2003.Unusual Find at a Predominantly White Diamond DepositDiavik, Rio Tinto’s last operational diamond mine following the closure of the Argyle mine in Australia, has traditionally yielded primarily white diamonds, with yellow diamonds accounting for less than one per cent of production. The recent recovery of the purple diamond is therefore a significant geological outlier.In a public statement, Rio Tinto said: “We recently had a unique discovery…

Botswana, Angola and Qatar have expressed their intent to join the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB), as announced during the organisation’s 2025 Presidents’ Meeting held in New York. The high-level gathering, hosted in collaboration with the Diamond Dealers Club of New York, brought together global stakeholders for discussions focused on the future of the natural diamond sector.WFDB Emphasises Unified Global VoiceThe event commenced with WFDB President Yoram Dvash underscoring the organisation’s mission to secure the future of the natural diamond industry through ethical leadership, transparency, and unity. “We are not just preserving the diamond industry — we are building its…

The Natural Diamond Council (NDC) has published a report examining key developments in the laboratory-grown diamond sector focusing on trends in production, pricing, sustainability claims, and product disclosure, drawing on research from independent analysts Edahn Golan and Paul Zimnisky.Production and Environmental ProfileThe report states that more than 70% of laboratory-grown diamonds are mass-produced in factories in China and India, where coal remains a primary energy source. The production processes—High-Pressure, High-Temperature (HPHT) and Chemical Vapour Deposition (CVD)—require sustained high temperatures of around 1,093°C and substantial volumes of water for cooling.Pricing Trends and MarginsThe report outlines a sharp and sustained decline in laboratory-grown…

On 12 June, the Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC) began its “We Protect a Legacy” campaign with a vending machine activation at a Belgian shopping mall, providing members of the public with the opportunity to purchase a lab‑grown diamond for €5, aiming to illustrate the price difference between synthetic and natural diamonds.AWDC president Isidore Morsel said: “With this campaign, we draw a clear line and inform the public in a transparent and accurate way. Only a well‑informed consumer can make conscious choices and avoid being misled.”Market Pricing and Consumer ClarityMorsel also noted that synthetic diamond prices have seen a significant…

De Beers Group has introduced two new downstream initiatives at the JCK Las Vegas Show, aimed at supporting demand for natural diamonds and strengthening transparency through traceability and digital tools.Ombré Desert Diamonds Marketing ConceptDe Beers has introduced its first new ‘beacon’ concept in over a decade, titled Ombré Desert Diamonds. The beacon is a category marketing initiative aimed at promoting natural diamond jewelry through coordinated design themes.The Ombré Desert Diamonds concept is inspired by desert landscapes in diamond-producing areas, with designs incorporating colour gradations such as whites, champagnes and ambers. Multi-stone designs were previewed at the show, and De Beers…

Registration is now open for the 2025 CIBJO Congress, which will take place in Paris from Monday 27 October to Wednesday 29 October 2025. The congress will coincide with the start of CIBJO’s centenary year. The organisation was founded in Paris in 1926 as a pan-European association and now operates as an international industry standards body for jewelry, gemstones and precious metals.Host and ProgrammeThis year’s event will be hosted by the Union Française de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie, Orfèvrerie, des Pierres & des Perles (UFBJOP), the representative body for the French jewelry, goldsmithing, gemstone and pearl sectors.A provisional programme is available on…

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) will introduce a new descriptive system for laboratory-grown diamonds later this year, replacing the traditional colour and clarity grading scales originally developed for natural diamonds. Laboratory-grown diamonds will still be accepted for evaluation and identification under the revised system.The new framework will categorise qualifying laboratory-grown diamonds as either ‘premium’ or ‘standard’, based on a combination of characteristics including colour, clarity and finish. Diamonds that do not meet the minimum threshold will not receive a classification. Until the new system is in place, current services for laboratory-grown diamond reports will remain available.Reflecting Narrow Quality RangeAccording…

President Duma Boko has announced plans to change how Botswana manages its mineral sector, stating that all diamonds mined in the country must be cut and polished locally. The policy is part of a government effort to expand local processing of minerals, including diamonds, copper, and nickel, before export.Shift to Domestic Diamond ManufacturingSpeaking at a public meeting in Ramotswa, President Boko said: “No diamond will leave this country raw — all will be cut and polished here.” He added, “We are moving to a point where no mineral will leave this country without being processed. We will bring the laws…

Gemological Science International (GSI) has opened a new laboratory in Bangkok, Thailand—its 14th globally. The facility is located in the city’s gem and jewelry district, a key centre for international colored gemstone trading.The laboratory will serve both local and international clients and offers testing and certification services for colored gemstones, natural and lab-grown diamonds, pearls, and finished jewelry.Range of ServicesThe Bangkok facility provides comprehensive testing, analysis, and certification services across a wide array of product categories, including colored gemstones, natural and lab-grown diamonds, finished jewelry, and pearls. The lab also specialises in the screening and detection of undisclosed lab-grown diamonds…

The World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) will hold its annual Presidents’ Meeting in New York from 10–11 June. The event will feature participation from government representatives and senior figures across the diamond supply chain to discuss current issues affecting the natural diamond sector.Hosted by the Diamond Dealers Club of New York and led by President Elliot Krisched, the meeting is centred on the theme “Tariffs and Supporting Natural Diamonds”. It will include a series of expert panels and discussions focused on current challenges and policy considerations within the industry.Government RepresentationSpeakers will include Botswana President Duma Boko and U.S. Secretary of…

Susan Jacques, President and CEO of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), has received the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA) Lifetime Achievement Award. The award was presented during a gala dinner at the conclusion of the ICA Congress held in Brasília, Brazil, from 19–22 May 2025.The award acknowledges Jacques’ long-standing service and leadership within the gem and jewelry industry. ICA President Damien Cody said: “Susan has contributed to our industry in many roles, always with exceptional dedication and professionalism.”ICA CEO Doug Hucker said: “Susan is a prime example of generational leadership excellence. While she may step away from her role at…

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has revised its pearl classification system to include a more detailed nacre grading scale, which will now be applied to all GIA pearl classification reports. The update introduces a five-tiered nacre grading system, replacing the previous binary classification of “Acceptable” and “Unacceptable.” GIA states that the change reflects feedback from pearl industry stakeholders seeking more alignment with other quality factors.From Binary to Graduated AssessmentPreviously, GIA’s nacre evaluation classified pearls as either “Acceptable” or “Unacceptable” based on factors such as thickness, layering, and visible surface damage. The revised system now categorises nacre quality as Excellent, Very…

Dr Gaetano Cavalieri, President of the World Jewelry Confederation (CIBJO), has been presented with a Lifetime Achievement Award by the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA). The award was conferred during the ICA Congress held in Brasilia from 19 to 22 May.The ICA award was presented to Dr Cavalieri in recognition of his work supporting standard-setting and international cooperation within the coloured gemstone sector.Statements from ICA LeadershipDamien Cody, President of the ICA, said:“Gaetano Cavalieri stands today as one of the most respected and influential figures in the global jewelry community. His dedication spans decades, and we, as an industry, owe him…

Progress made during 2025 Intersessional in Dubai as African Diamond Producers Association proposes revised languageThe Kimberley Process (KP) has taken a notable step forward toward expanding its definition of “conflict diamonds,” following developments at its 2025 Intersessional meeting held in Dubai from 12–16 May. The advancement stems from a proposal submitted by the African Diamond Producers Association (ADPA), which represents 15 member countries and five observers. This represents a notable step forward in the KP’s ongoing review and reform efforts.Current and Proposed DefinitionThe current definition of conflict diamonds—unchanged since the KP’s inception in 2000—refers only to rough diamonds used by…

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has launched GemKit by GemKids, a free digital education resource designed to introduce primary-level students to gemmology. Aimed at pupils in years equivalent to US grades four to six, the programme includes lesson plans, worksheets, videos and activities aligned with the Next Generation Science Standards (NGSS).Curriculum-Aligned Gemmology ContentGemKit is structured to support earth science education and is available for use in classrooms and homeschool settings. The digital programme includes modular unit plans that can be used in full or in part, offering flexibility for educators.Cathryn Ramirez, Chief Learning Officer at GIA, stated: “By bringing the…

De Beers has reportedly been offering rough diamonds at reduced prices to a limited number of trading partners, according to buyers familiar with the matter. These transactions, which fall outside the company’s standard sales framework, are said to involve discounts ranging from 10% to 20% off official prices. De Beers has not publicly confirmed the details of these arrangements and declined to comment when approached.Under usual practice, De Beers conducts ten scheduled sales each year in Botswana for a group of approximately 70 authorised customers, known as sightholders. Prices at these events are fixed, and while purchases are not mandatory,…

Alrosa has recovered a 468.30-carat amber-coloured diamond from the Mir mine in Yakutia, the largest gem-quality stone recorded in Russia to date. It has been named “80 Years of Victory in the Great Patriotic War”, marking the 80th anniversary of the Soviet Union’s World War II victory.Recovery at Reopened Mir MineMeasuring 56mm by 54mm by 22mm, the diamond surpasses the previous Russian record of 401 carats set in 2013. It was recovered from the Mir mine, which resumed operations after being closed in 2017 following a fatal flood that resulted in eight deaths.The Mir mine, active since the Soviet period,…

De Beers Group has announced its intention to close Lightbox, its lab-grown diamond (LGD) jewelry brand, as part of a broader strategy to refocus its operations around natural diamonds. The decision is described as a step in executing the group’s “Origins Strategy”, which was unveiled in May 2024, aimed at simplifying operations and redirecting investment towards core segments.As part of the wind-down, De Beers is in discussions with potential buyers regarding certain Lightbox assets, including inventory. The group confirmed that it will continue to support customers through warranties and after-sales service during the closure process.Declining Lab-Grown Prices Prompt ExitLaunched in…

The World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) has formally expressed support for an industry-wide request to the U.S. Government, urging the exemption of natural diamonds from proposed import tariffs. The appeal centres around the economic impact that such duties could have on the U.S. jewelry sector and was initiated by the World Diamond Council (WDC).The WDC statement, released earlier this week, calls for natural diamonds (HS Codes 7102.10 and 7102.31) to be included on Annex II, exempting them from the proposed tariffs. The WDC has received backing from multiple trade bodies, including the Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC), the International…

The Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC) has introduced an online tool to help track U.S. tariff changes relevant to the jewelry industry. The Tariff Tracker is now live and provides information on import duties for jewelry, gemstones, and precious metals.Purpose and ScopeAccording to the JVC, the tool outlines how these tariffs may affect import costs, customs compliance, and supply chain planning. It will be updated when changes are announced and serves as a reference point for industry members. The resource is not a substitute for legal advice, and users are encouraged to consult legal professionals for compliance issues.Development and SupportThe tool…

De Beers Group has recommenced its diamond auction operations in Botswana following the relocation of its Auctions business from Singapore to Gaborone. The move consolidates the Group’s global diamond trading activities in Botswana, completing the transfer of its auction operations.The Auctions business is now operating alongside the Group’s Sightholder sales activities already based in Gaborone, which distribute rough diamonds through term contracts and auctions.Pilot Auction Conducted During Cycle 3Sales resumed with a small-scale trial auction during Sales Cycle 3, directed at Sightholder customers. De Beers reported a high level of participation from Sightholder customers during the trial event. The majority of…

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has confirmed the reinstatement of its global laboratory operations, including the acceptance of goods requiring shipment to the United States. The update follows a recent suspension of international shipments linked to changes in US import tariffs.International Shipping to the US ReinstatedGIA laboratories outside the United States, including those in Hong Kong and Dubai, have resumed standard service procedures. The organisation is once again accepting items that need to be sent to the US for analysis or certification.“All GIA laboratories have resumed accepting goods according to their local service criteria,” the organisation confirmed in a…

Diamonds Do Good has completed its first “Diamonds Do Good in Action” trip to Botswana. The initiative was designed to provide jewelry industry participants with on-site exposure to natural diamond mining operations and related community projects.The itinerary included visits to the Jwaneng diamond mine and a local diamond cutting and polishing facility. Attendees observed various stages of the supply chain and met employees, including individuals with disabilities, working within the sector.The delegation also met with government representatives to learn how diamond revenues have contributed to infrastructure development, including roads, schools, and hospitals. The visit also included time in the Okavango…

Tiffany & Co. has launched Blue Book 2025: Sea of Wonder, its latest high jewelry collection. Designed by Chief Artistic Officer Nathalie Verdeille, the collection is divided into six chapters, each inspired by marine forms and environments, and draws on the house’s historic connection to oceanic motifs, particularly those developed by Jean Schlumberger.Design Themes and InspirationThe collection explores themes ranging from ocean flora to aquatic creatures and wave formations, combining natural references with detailed craftsmanship and transformable designs. Verdeille stated:“Each piece in our latest Blue Book collection, Sea of Wonder, captivates and invites us to lose ourselves in the rich…

De Beers has reported a 44 per cent fall in rough diamond sales revenue for the first quarter of 2025, according to figures released by its parent company, Anglo American. The miner sold 4.7 million carats across its first two sights of the year, generating $520 million, compared to $925 million from 4.6 million carats in the same period of 2024. The average price per carat declined by 38 per cent to $124.Sales and Pricing TrendsThe decline in average price reflects a combination of a 15 per cent drop in De Beers’ rough diamond price index, a shift in the…

Fine jewelry manufacturer Jewelex and wearable technology company Ultrahuman have unveiled Rare, described as the world’s first luxury smart ring. The collaboration was announced at CES 2025 in Las Vegas, bringing together traditional craftsmanship and modern health monitoring technology.Jewelex, with a 59-year heritage in fine jewelry, and Ultrahuman, known for health-focused wearables such as the Ultrahuman Ring AIR and Ultrahuman M1 glucose monitoring platform, have partnered to integrate jewelry techniques with embedded health sensors.Manufacturing and Design DetailsRare is produced using CNC machining for micron-level accuracy, followed by hand-finishing. Jewelex applies sustainable practices, operating on 100% renewable energy since January 2023…