Author: Steven Joseph

Steven aims to be first to bring the news on industry updates, while his finance background informs his insights on how broader economic trends affect the jewelry trade

Pandora A/S has recently updated its revenue forecasts, indicating a strong first quarter driven primarily by its lab-grown diamond sales. The company has revised its expected organic sales growth to 8-10% for this year, up from the earlier estimate of 6-9%.Financial Performance and Market ReactionThe announcement of the updated guidance and strong quarterly results led to a notable surge in Pandora’s share price. The stock saw its largest intraday rise since November last year, climbing as much as 6.6% in Copenhagen. Over the past year, shares have escalated by over 80%, reflecting investor confidence in the brand’s strategic direction and…

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The World Gold Council’s ‘Gold Demand Trends Q1 2024 report presents a complex landscape for gold demand. When including over-the-counter (OTC) transactions, total demand saw a year-on-year increase of 3% to 1,238 tonnes, bolstered by significant purchases by central banks and OTC investments. This was against a backdrop of a 5% drop in demand excluding OTC transactions, which fell to 1,102 tonnes due to continued outflows from exchange-traded funds (ETFs).Central Bank and OTC InfluencesCentral banks significantly increased their gold holdings, with a net addition of 290 tonnes, although not all additions are currently shown in International Monetary Fund (IMF) data. Investor…

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Anglo American has turned down a significant $38.8 billion takeover proposal from mining rival BHP. This decision marks a pivotal moment in the mining sector, reflecting both the strategic independence of Anglo American and broader industry implications.The offer from BHP was intended to merge two of the industry’s giants, with a particular focus on enhancing copper resources critical for future technologies. Nevertheless, Anglo American’s chairman, Stuart Chambers, responded to the offer by stating it was “opportunistic” and did not fully value the company’s potential for growth. This rejection suggests Anglo American’s confidence in its own growth prospects and strategic plans.The Role…

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Gemfields has announced its updated ‘G-Factor for Natural Resources’ figures as of 31 December 2023.The G-Factor is a metric initially introduced in July 2021, designed to enhance transparency in how natural resource wealth is distributed between companies and the governments of the countries where they operate and spans a variety of sectors, including mining, oil, gas, timber, and fishing.Details of the 2023 UpdateThe recent update by Gemfields underscores the company’s ongoing effort to promote the G-Factor as a standard for transparency and accountability in natural resource management. The company continues to encourage governance bodies, industry peers, and host governments to…

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De Beers Group has officially announced the relocation of its Auctions business headquarters from Singapore to Gaborone, Botswana. This strategic decision aims to streamline operations and enhance the efficiency of its activities, marking another step in the company’s long-standing relationship with the Botswana diamond sector.Background and Business Rationale The move builds on the success of De Beers Global Sightholder Sales, which relocated from the United Kingdom to Botswana in 2013. The transition of the Auctions headquarters is expected to foster stronger partnerships, drive cost efficiencies, and contribute to the development of essential industry skills within Botswana. De Beers’ consolidation of…

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Tim Schlick has taken the helm as Chief Executive Officer of Platinum Guild International (PGI), succeeding Huw Daniel who retired on April 4, 2024. Mr. Schlick’s tenure at PGI began in 2015, and he has since progressed through key positions including Chief Strategy Officer and Chief Operating Officer.Background and Expertise Prior to his new role, Mr. Schlick was recognized for his strategic and marketing prowess, having consulted for over 30 Fortune 500 companies. His career also includes significant roles at DDB China Group, McCann Erickson, and Andersen Consulting. With a comprehensive background in both the European and Asian markets, Mr.…

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Buccellati has launched a retrospective exhibition titled “The Prince of Goldsmiths, Rediscovering the Classics” in Venice. Set in Oficine 800 on Giudecca Island from April 18 to June 18, 2024, the exhibition is crafted by Balich Wonder Studio with Alba Cappellieri overseeing the jewelry and silverware displays. It aims to highlight Buccellati’s historical development and craftsmanship since its inception in 1919.Andrea Buccellati, creative director and honorary president of the Maison, remarked: “The classics offer the pleasure of rediscovery, evoking timeless worlds of elegance, art and nature.“Reinterpreting them means reinterpreting millennial traditions and forms with an always up-to-date look.“This is the…

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Instappraise has launched a new trifold appraisal format which aims to streamline the creation of appraisal documents for small businesses by allowing professional-standard reports to be printed easily on various types of paper using standard office printers.Features of the Trifold FormatThe trifold design is specifically structured to provide a compact and efficient means of detailing appraisals, which can include high-resolution images and comprehensive descriptions of items. It supports double-sided printing and offers users the choice between different paper finishes, such as glossy or matte. The format includes essential elements such as model specifications, grading scales for diamonds and gemstones, and…

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The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has announced the availability of printed versions of the AGS Ideal Reports, designed to provide a comprehensive assessment of diamond quality by measuring key aspects of light performance: brightness, fire, and contrast.Features of the AGS Ideal ReportThe AGS Ideal Report is now available in conjunction with several GIA reports such as the Diamond Grading Report, Diamond Dossier, Laboratory-Grown Diamond Report, Laboratory-Grown Diamond Report Dossier, eReport, and Diamond Focus Report. This addition aims to provide a more comprehensive evaluation of a diamond’s characteristics.Promotional PricingFor a limited period from April 15 to May 15, 2024, GIA…

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March saw a significant decrease in Swiss watch exports, which fell by 16% to CHF 2 billion ($2.2 billion), according to data from the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry. This downturn is attributed primarily to a reduced demand in key Asian markets, particularly China and Hong Kong. Export Analysis BreakdownDecline in AsiaChina and Hong Kong experienced pronounced declines, with exports to China dropping 42% to CHF 150.2 million ($165.2 million), and Hong Kong by 44% to CHF 148.1 million ($162.9 million). These reductions have brought exports to levels lower than those observed at the peak of the pandemic in March 2020.“The…

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A group of 11 organisations within the gold and jewelry sector has issued an open letter requesting more precise definitions of “recycled” gold. This initiative, aimed at regulatory bodies such as the International Organisation for Standardisation (ISO), the London Bullion Market Association (LBMA), the Responsible Jewelry Council (RJC), and the Responsible Minerals Initiative (RMI), seeks to prevent potential greenwashing by aligning the term with actual sustainability efforts.Concerns Over DefinitionsThe letter points out the current ambiguity surrounding the term “recycled” gold, which can be exploited in marketing and potentially confuse consumers. Organisations such as the Alliance for Responsible Mining, Artisanal Gold Council,…

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Petra Diamonds latest tender report shows varied performance for rough diamond prices, with notable challenges for smaller goods. The report outlines the financial and operational outcomes from their fifth trading session of the fiscal year, which took place in April, offering insights into current industry trends.Tender Performance and Financial HighlightsThe April tender generated $49 million from the sale of 362,132 carats. This included the sale of a 14.76-carat blue diamond from the Cullinan mine in South Africa, which contributed $8.2 million. The session observed a modest decrease in like-for-like prices of 1% compared to the previous session in February. However, the…

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In a recent unanimous decision at the U.N. General Assembly, member nations reaffirmed their commitment to the Kimberley Process.This resolution underscores the international community’s ongoing effort to ensure that diamond trade supports sustainable development rather than contributing to armed conflict.While the Kimberley Process has been successful in many respects, it faces unprecedented challenges due to geopolitical tensions and evolving conflict dynamics. The recent General Assembly highlighted the need for continuous support and adaptation of the process, ensuring it remains effective in a changing global landscape.Calls for Reform and ModernisationSignificant discussions around reforming the Kimberley Process focus on broadening the definition…

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Brilliant Earth Group, Inc. has announced a partnership with Dr. Jane Goodall and the Jane Goodall Institute (JGI) to coincide with Dr. Goodall’s 90th birthday. The collaboration aims to support JGI’s conservation work and advance ethical practices within the fine jewelry industry.Funding and InitiativesThe collaboration was initiated with a $100,000 contribution from the Brilliant Earth Foundation to Dr. Goodall’s birthday fundraising campaign, aimed at funding the conservation efforts of JGI. This initiative is part of a broader push to enhance transparency and responsible sourcing in the jewelry sector, focusing particularly on diamonds and precious metals.An exclusive jewelry collection made from…

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In a recent development that has stirred conversations across the jewelry industry, Skydiamond, a British diamond manufacturer known for its lab-grown diamonds, has found itself in regulatory hot water. The Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) has ruled that the company’s advertising campaigns have misled consumers by failing to clearly communicate that its diamonds are lab-grown. This decision comes following complaints from the Natural Diamond Council, leading to an in-depth investigation into Skydiamond’s marketing practices.ASA’s Findings and ImplicationsThe crux of the ASA’s decision lies in Skydiamond’s use of terms like “diamonds”, “diamonds made entirely from the sky”, and “real diamonds” without adequate qualifiers…

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Ari Epstein has announced his resignation as CEO of the Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC) after a tenure of 13 years, marking a significant leadership shift at one of the central bodies in the global diamond trade. His departure occurs against a backdrop of substantial regulatory changes and market disruptions, notably the imposition of sanctions on Russian diamonds by the Group of Seven (G7) and corresponding EU regulations.“This marks the end of an era of visionary leadership and significant contributions to not only our company but the industry at large,” AWDC president Isidore Mörsel expressed in a statement. “Under Ari Epstein’s…

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Botswana Diamonds plc, recently announced plans to integrate Artificial Intelligence (AI) into its operations.The firm intends to apply AI techniques to its extensive exploration database in Botswana, aiming to enhance the search for new diamond deposits and possibly other minerals.Extensive Data ResourcesBotswana Diamonds holds the second largest diamond exploration database in the country, encompassing approximately 95,000 square kilometres of data. This database includes about 375,000 kilometres of airborne geophysical data, 606 ground geophysical surveys, around 228,000 soil sample results, and roughly 32,000 drill hole logs. In total, the database comprises 380 gigabytes of data and 260,000 files.Advanced AI Technology”The company…

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In a pioneering move, the Kenyan government is nearing the completion of a comprehensive operational framework aimed at integrating artisanal mining activities within national parks. Spearheaded by the State Department for Mining, this initiative seeks to reconcile the long-standing conflict between environmental conservation and economic development through the exploration and exploitation of minerals in protected areas.Collaborative Effort for Sustainable MiningThe framework’s development follows a presidential directive, advocating for a balanced approach that permits artisanal miners to access rich mineral reserves within Kenya’s national parks while ensuring the protection of these vital ecosystems. Principal Secretary Elijah Mwangi announced that the document…

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The Watch & Jewelry Initiative 2030 (WJI 2030) presented its second annual Stakeholder Report, “Report on Progress 2023 – 2024”, at Watches & Wonders on April 10, 2024. The presentation was led by Iris Van der Veken, Executive Director & Secretary General of WJI 2030 and featured insights from industry leaders about the significance of collective action up to the year 2030.Panel Discussion OverviewThe discussion panel included Cyrille Vigneron (President & CEO of Cartier SA), Dr. Anino Emuwa (Founder of 100 Women @ Davos), Frédéric Grangié (CEO of Chanel Watches & Jewelry), and Dr. Daniel Klier (Advisor to the ESG…

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A recent report by Watchfinder & Co. presents compelling data on Gen Z’s engagement with the luxury watch market, painting a picture of a generation with a burgeoning interest in luxury watches. This analysis, rooted in a survey of over 2,400 individuals aged 18 to 26 in the U.S., sheds light on the preferences, spending habits, and digital influences shaping Gen Z’s luxury watch purchases.Elevated Spending ProjectionsGen Z individuals are prepared to allocate an average of $10,870 for their next luxury watch, surpassing the spending averages of millennials ($5,325), Generation X ($5,423), and baby boomers ($2,632). This indicates a higher…

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Lucapa Diamond Company has announced the appointment of former De Beers executive Stuart Brown as its new independent non-executive Chairman. Alongside him, Ronald Beevor, known for his extensive experience in investment banking and mining, joins the board as an independent non-executive director.These appointments coincide with Ross Stanley’s departure from the board, indicating a notable change in the company’s leadership structure.Experience and ExpertiseStuart Brown’s career spans over three decades, primarily highlighted by a 20-year tenure at De Beers where he ascended to great roles including Interim CEO and CFO. Notably, Brown’s leadership at Firestone Diamonds led to the successful fundraising of…

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Informa Markets Jewelry has announced the judging panel for the 2024 Sustainability Awards by the Jewelry World Awards (JWA), aiming to highlight notable sustainability practices within the jewelry, gemstone, and related industries over the past three years. The panel consists of a diverse group of experts known for their contributions and leadership both within and outside the jewelry sector.The PanelThe 2024 Sustainability Awards panel features:John Mulligan, Director of Market Relations & Climate Change Lead at the World Gold CouncilNirupa Bhatt, renowned gem and jewelry industry expert and Business Leadership CoachHayley A. Henning, a strategist in the coloured gemstone businessAndrew Lau,…

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The recent imposition of sanctions by the G7 on the global diamond trade has sparked significant concern among African diamond producers. The sanctions, which necessitate routing all European Union (EU)-destined diamonds through a single entry point in Antwerp, have been criticized by key African stakeholders for their potential to disrupt the industry’s logistics and equality in international trade relations.African Producers’ StanceLefoko Moagi, Botswana’s Minister of Mineral Resources, voiced his concerns during a meeting with the African Diamond Producers Association (ADPA) in Zimbabwe. Representing 19 countries, including major diamond-producing nations like Botswana, Angola, South Africa, the Democratic Republic of Congo, Zimbabwe,…

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In a recent event at the Rice Northwest Museum of Rocks & Minerals in Hillsboro, Oregon, a 703-carat tanzanite carving, named L’Heure Bleu by artist Naomi Sarna, has been officially recognised as the world’s largest cut tanzanite by GUINNESS WORLD RECORDS™ on March 9.Record-Breaking AchievementThe declaration of the world record was witnessed by a large crowd, including gemstone experts Jessie English from J.S. English Appraisals and Madeline Saunders of Oregon Estate Jewelry, who served as the official witnesses. Michael Empric, a Guinness World Records adjudicator, verified and announced the achievement. The event was also attended by Gail Spann, Rice Museum…

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Alrosa has announced a significant change in its sales approach for the year 2024 – it has  committed to selling its entire diamond production for the year directly to the Russian government, a move that deviates markedly from its previous sales strategies. This decision comes amidst escalating sanctions pressure, with the G7, which accounts for 70% of the diamond market, tightening its restrictions on Russian diamonds.Government Procurement of Diamond ProductionThe Finance Ministry’s Gokhran, Russia’s repository for precious metals and stones, acquired Alrosa’s entire diamond output for March 2024 and plans to maintain this purchasing pattern throughout the year. This arrangement is…

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Ahmed Bin Sulayem, Chair of the Kimberley Process (KP), recently concluded a comprehensive fact-finding mission to West Africa, specifically Sierra Leone and Ghana, recognizing both countries for their exemplary adherence to KP standards and setting a benchmark for global practices.Strengthening Global StandardsThe mission, led by the UAE delegation, was geared towards reinforcing best practices within the Kimberley Process membership. As part of the UAE’s ambitious “Year of Delivery,” the visit aimed at ensuring the Kimberley Process’s stringent controls and regulations are effectively implemented, fostering a more ethical and transparent global diamond trade.Sierra Leone and Ghana’s commitment to the KP was…

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The European Union and Belgian authorities have intensified their enforcement of sanctions against Russia, particularly targeting the importation and trade of Russian diamonds. This action includes the arrest of four individuals in Antwerp for allegedly violating EU sanctions, and the imposition of sanctions against Alrosa, Russia’s leading diamond mining company, along with its CEO, Pavel Marinychev.Antwerp Raids Yield Arrests and SeizuresFollowing an investigation triggered by the seizure of diamonds in late February, the Belgian public prosecutor’s office reported that the Federal Judicial Police (FGP) Antwerp conducted six house searches, leading to four arrests. According to the public prosecutor’s office, “The Belgian public…

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The Botswana government-owned Okavango Diamond Company (ODC) has been announced as the latest member of the Natural Diamond Council (NDC). This marks a significant moment as ODC is recognised as the first non-mining entity to gain membership within the NDC. The collaboration underscores ODC’s crucial role in the distribution of natural diamonds and reflects Botswana’s strategy to enhance consumer demand as a key to the future prosperity of the natural diamond market.Strategic MembershipThe inclusion of ODC in the NDC represents a key milestone, uniting two influential entities within the diamond sector. ODC’s annual contribution of over 6 million carats of rough…

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As the retail industry increasingly adopts generative AI into its operations, the jewelry sector finds itself at an important moment, with the technology looking likely to be incorporated into many aspects of customer service, personalisation, and operations.A recent survey conducted by Salesforce and the Retail AI Council unveils a comprehensive overview of the current state of generative AI adoption across the retail landscape, providing critical insights that are particularly relevant for jewellers.Generative AI Adoption in Retail: A Primer for JewellersThe survey reveals that 36% of retail employees are currently utilising generative AI, with projections indicating an increase to 45% by…

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The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has recently published “William Ruser: The Jeweler Who Charmed Hollywood”, exploring the career of William Ruser, famed for his figural jewelry with freshwater pearls. The book, by Judy Colbert and Peggy Tsiamis, aims to provide a thorough look at Ruser’s contribution to jewelry design and his enduring popularity in the market.From Humble Beginnings to StardomRuser’s journey from modest origins to the preferred jeweller of Hollywood’s elite in the mid-20th century is captured in the book. His clientele included names like Elizabeth Taylor and Frank Sinatra. On Ruser’s customer service, the book notes, “Ruser learned a…

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